1933 SA 1903

[mrandig]

So today is cleaning day. Actually it's cleaning the stock day, and it's putting the first coat of oil on the handguard day.

For this project, I'm not trying to strip, only deep clean. Required supplies are below:

1. Wife's good towels
2. Kitchen counter
3. Water pitcher for measuring (4qts = 1 gallon).
4. Murphy's Oil Soap
5. Mr. Clean Magic Eraser
6. Sponge
7. Measuring cup (1/4 cup size)
8. Toothbrush
9. GSD

The mix here is 1 gallon hot water (2 pitchers) to 1/4 cup Murphy's. Add water to sink, add Murphy's and mix until its a bubbly gun bath.

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I keep the GSD with me, so nobody tries to sneak up behind me to do dishes while I'm cleaning my guns.

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[mrandig]

Cleaning is pretty straightforward. You clean - up, down, right, left. No particular technique needed. I use a toothbrush for the nooks and crannies.

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Once done, it almost looks more like a new reproduction than an original 30's rifle. Years of grime, gunk and other stuff has been removed, but it's not cleaned so deep that it's 85 years of history is gone. Completely stripped stocks never look right afterwards, IMHO.

I'm going to put some BLO on this stock later, but I'm going to let it dry for a day or so before then.

[mrandig]

It's probably not clear in the photos, but I did hit my first snag during the cleaning process.

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How and why this was put in so deep is a mystery to me. I didn't want to get so aggressive with it that I damage the buttplate, but this screw is STUCK. I'll have to scratch my head for awhile and figure out how to get this out. All things considered, I don't really have a need to take it out (the cleaning is already done), so I may just leave it.

[mrandig]

For the new handguard, I'm going to use Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) to finish.

If you've never bought BLO before, 1 gallon of the stuff lasts about 3 family generations. The amount you need to complete one rifle is pretty small, so just a quart will probably last a few years. This is Klean Strip brand, again just what they had at the store at the time I bought it.

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[ssgross]

but this screw is STUCK

A little heat applied directly to the screw head should allow you to turn it out. Don't go crazy - a very little is all that is needed. When I completely tear down an old rifle for a deep clean (usually soon after purchase), I always smear a little white NLGI No.2 grease on any wood to metal contact not likely to see the light of day for another 100 years - such as on those screws and under the butt plate. I picked up the trick from the enfield armorers on that side of this forum.

[ssgross]

Oh No! From your pre-oven-cleaner pic, getting a closer color match would have been pretty easy. I would have suggested mineral spirits clear the BLO you applied, then dilute some Birchwood Casey walnut stain with water, and rub the forend to even out the color. Let it dry. If too light in color, do it again. If too dark, go over with plain water. When it matches to your liking, use the BLO. I have matched a few handgaurds like this.

[mrandig]

Oh No! From your pre-oven-cleaner pic, getting a closer color match would have been pretty easy. I would have suggested mineral spirits clear the BLO you applied, then dilute some Birchwood Casey walnut stain with water, and rub the forend to even out the color. Let it dry. If too light in color, do it again. If too dark, go over with plain water. When it matches to your liking, use the BLO. I have matched a few handgaurds like this.

That was my option #2! I debated between more BLO, dye (stain), or Easy Off for almost half the day, then finally went with most drastic. Whatever was under the coats of BLO was giving me fits, so I figured time to start from scratch. Wish I had made that decision before the repair.

Good news, I didn't get any oven cleaner on the stock. Good news, the wood has some pretty grain underneath. Bad news, I have to do the handguard rub all over again, and stripped wood tends to look, well... stripped. I have a couple of tricks here, maybe they will work.

[browningautorifle]

I use Watco Danish oil, medium walnut but they have dark or light as your taste is. Oven cleaner can be a death knell for woodwork, I've been out all day so didn't see anything after 0500 this AM. Whichever oil and stain you use should be ok. Don't be surprised if the streaks come back. Hope not though.

[mrandig]

Cleaned 3 times with oven cleaner, then steamed with a clothes iron for probably 45 minutes. Crud wouldn't stop seeping out. Should be clean enough now, and most of the little dents are gone. The big dings at the midline will just have to stay; they don't affect the way it shoots.

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[mrandig]

I think I caused some concern in the group over stripping the forend completely, so I now I have to try to make some magic happen.

First, since we stripped the forend down to bare wood, this gives me a chance to do a little repair work. Any small dings, I'll hit with 150 grit sandpaper. I'm going to sand any deep gouges with 100 grit sandpaper. Then I'll sand everything lightly with 150 grit one last time. Note that I'm using a pencil eraser as a backer; its flexible enough to shape and keep the paper against the surface of the forend.

Second, I'll clean off the forend with mineral spirits.

Third, after the mineral spirits are dry, I'm going to "whisker" the forend. This is simply knocking down any raised grain with a Scotch-Brite pad. I want a nice smooth surface to work with. I'm not using steel wool here, as I don't want to deal with the metallic pieces that can sometimes get left behind.

With the above done, we should be ready to start putting on a new finish.

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