"Inland" Manufacturing M1 Carbines - 1st hand experience

[imntxs554]

Even with all the specs for the finished product in front of you from 4 years of development by the original players, how are you going to actually MAKE it?

For all the articles I read about all there problems there having I doubt the company will still be around in 4 years. If that's how long it took to get it right in the 40's. How much money are they going to lose with all the returns and paying employees to do Re-Work. I was in Manufacturing for 15 years and we were allocated so much money for re-work. If we ran out of that money production would slow to a crawl before we phased it out. Unless like I said earlier if the cost is very low to manufacture these new Carbines they might buy more time to get it right. I hope for the sake of bringing back this Iconic American Firearm I'm hoping they succeed.

[Carbine85]

This is Inland Manufacturing s/n 9001316. I received it as a replacement from Inland, replacing s/n 900698. Finally got out to the range with it yesterday.

At first, approximately 1 in 5 shots the bolt failed to rotate and lock completely during firing with the carbine failing to fire. After the first 50 rounds or so this increased to 1 in every 2 rounds. When the bolt did lock and and the carbine was fired, about 1 in 4 the bolt failed to cock the hammer for the next shot.

Attachment 67741 (click on the pics for an enlargement)

Checking the headspace with Clymer gauges, it wouldn't close on a No Go, but it failed to close on the Go gauge. Spring tension returning the bolt to the closed position during firing would sometimes force the bolt closed but at 1 in 2 firing was stopped and the headspace checked.

Attachment 67742

I replaced the Inland bolt with a GI bolt made by Inland during WWII. It headspaced correctly. During reassembly, fitting the right bolt lug into the cam cut in the slide was difficult. Cycling the action for firing the cam cut in the slide would not allow the GI bolt to rotate and lock into the closed position. This could be overcome with physical force but on the next cartridge the spring could not force the bolt into the closed position.

The GI bolt was removed and replaced with the newly manufactured Inland bolt. Surfaces of the bolt, slide, receiver and barrel that come in contact with one another were treated with Breakfree in an attempt to see if lubrication would help.

Firing the carbine, the same problem with the bolt failing to close and lock was encountered about 1 in 3. In addition, the bolt and slide now failed to move when the cartridge was fired.

The carbine was disassembled again and it was discovered the gas piston nut had rotated to the point it allowed the gas out of the gas chamber without enough pressure left to allow the piston to operate the action. Had firing been continued the gas piston nut would likely have unseated completely. Had this happened there would have been noting to restrain the piston from becoming the bullet.

Before going to the range I had visually inspected and cleaned the carbine. I had noted the gas piston nut had been staked in place.

Re-tightening the gas piston nut to very snug I found it rotated past the stake marks in the gas piston housing.

Attachment 67743

While the nut may not have been tightened fully before being staked, I do not possess the skill to check the gas piston housing dimensions or size of the gas hole. At this point I didn't assume. After I returned home I submitted a return request. I received a prompt reply that an RMA and shipping label for return would be forthcoming. As of the time I authored this post it hasn't been received but I expect it will come tomorrow.

An insufficient number of rounds could be fired for a break in period and to evaluate the right bolt lug to note improvements over the damage to the bolt in the first carbine.

Ammo used was factory new Aguila round nose and Lake City Arsenal ammo from the 70's in like new condition purchased from CMP.

Jim

The 1st picture looks like the reciever is cracked on top.
The pictures clearly show the poor quality of craftsmanship.
I have built 2 from GI parts and restored several and never had a problem.

[Sleeplessnashadow]

Sometimes photos can be a bit deceptive. What appears to be a crack is actually a small ridge that cast a shadow with the available light at the range. It's one of a number of casting leftovers that wasn't dealt with. I haven't addressed appearances as some are acceptable to some but not others. Whereas function is an issue for all.

Attachment 67795

[PDIEDRICKS]

Hello, I have been following this thread for a few days now and decided to register so that I could share my experience with my Inland Manufacturing Rifle. I purchased my M1A1 Paratrooper model off of gunbroker.com a few weeks ago. I as many others am less than content with this company's version of the M1 carbine. I mistakenly prematurely sold my Auto Ordnance M1A1 right before I received this one as I was sure it must be of better quality, albeit there wasnt much to complain about with my particular Auto Ordnance M1.

Now for the issues: as another mentioned in this thread the finish on the stock sweats off onto my hand and is also not very durable. i found that just after a few times of collapsing the stock the butt plate scratched the dark finish right off, showing raw Walnut, which is cosmetic i know but annoying.

Secondly the barrel band does not fit correctly. the hoop that is bent over the sling swivel sticks to far back and prevents the barrel band from sitting flush with the stock and handguard while simoltaneously not allowing the retaining clip to snap into place (it came from the factory like this!). It would also seem that the barrel band is not into spec as far as wraping around the stock. there is a gap on the left side (looking from the muzzle) between the band and the stock. this in turn makes it difficult to get the screw to engage and also forces the band to warp when tightening. ive not had a real USGI M1 carbine but isnt the barrel band supposed to be able to clamp all the way together making both ends meet using the screw? this one does not...

The upper handguard seems to not be cut deep enough as others have stated elsewhere it prevents a full sight picture, something I had no trouble with on the Auto Ordnance.

I have not shot it yet so I cant give a report on function, but i did load a full 15 round magazine to test feeding and chambering. with the magazine fullly seated, I cannot bring the action all the way to the rear to chamber the first round... it binds up about half way and even with a decent amount of force cannot be made to complete the full rearward motion, which for me is a huge problem. Even with only 14 rounds it sometimes locks up. I tried this with the factory magazine and KCI South Korean mags, which again worked flawlessly in the Auto Ordnance. The serial # on mine is is mid 600s. With that said when i do take it to the range I expect to have the same tempermant issues that sleeplessanshadow had.

I will follow up once i give it a little range time

[Sleeplessnashadow]

Thanks for jumping in, Kodiak. Keep a close eye on that bolt for damage.

Current Inland Mfg Barrel Band/Stock

I think the issue with the fit of the barrel band has to do with the stock and handguard. The first two pics below were taken at the range 01 Dec. I found to get the barrel band spring to hold the barrel band and prevent the band from sliding forward during firing I had to sit the carbine on it's butt and tap the barrel band down onto the stock and handguard. I didn't try swapping any of these with GI parts given the other problems I encountered warranting a return.

Attachment 67796
These show the machining and fit of the "Inland" barrel band, handguard and stock. One other owner posted earlier he bought an Inland stock and handguard as a replacement for a different carbine and they wouldn't work as they should with his carbine and barrel band.
Attachment 67797

GI Barrel Bands

To answer your question regarding the fit of the GI barrel bands at the screw, they vary depending on the amount of use the band and wood have been put through. New ones tend to have a tight fit on the barrel and a gap between the two sides the screw pulls together (bottom pic). Well used ones (first two pics) will often cinch the sides together tightly.

Attachment 67798

Attachment 67799

Attachment 67800

Jim

[imarangemaster]

I think it is interesting that the Inland CEO has stopped responding. I'm just saying.....

[JimF4M1s (Deceased)]

I found that just after a few times of collapsing the stock the butt plate scratched the dark finish right off, showing raw Walnut, which is cosmetic i know but annoying.

PDIEDRICKS,

Welcome to the forum. I hope it's interesting, informative, and fun for you.

You jumped right into a new topic with these current Inland's. I look forward to your the comments on your shooting experience.

The stock marring you mentioned above doesn't only happen with these aftermarket M1A1's. It happens to the originals as well. All mine have that. Something about metal banging into wood. I store mine with the sling under the buttplate.

Jim

[imntxs554]

Secondly the barrel band does not fit correctly. the hoop that is bent over the sling swivel sticks to far back and prevents the barrel band from sitting flush with the stock and handguard while simoltaneously not allowing the retaining clip to snap into place (it came from the factory like this!). It would also seem that the barrel band is not into spec as far as wraping around the stock. there is a gap on the left side (looking from the muzzle) between the band and the stock. this in turn makes it difficult to get the screw to engage and also forces the band to warp when tightening. ive not had a real USGI M1 carbine but isnt the barrel band supposed to be able to clamp all the way together making both ends meet using the screw?this one does not...

Welcome to the Forum....I always thought that myself, (but I'm no expert) until I saw the Picture posted on Who made this T2 band? a "44 Carbine not worn enough or Not Overly Tighten to have the BB flush together. I never seen more like that until now with the pictures posted here. I guess I never noticed or never really looked. I would of thought '44 USGI Carbine the BB would be flush. On my 3 GI ones they came Flushed Together. I'm sorry you had to sell your Auto Ordnance that didn't have ALL these problems this Company is having. Can you get it Back ?

[imarangemaster]

While I was not a fan of the Auto Ordnance Carbines due to personal bad experiences with several early ones in the 2008 time frame, I understand their QC has improved in response to pressure from customers. With that said, with auto Ordnance their QC issues were more fit and finish than anything, with some feeding issues. AO had NOTHING the magnitude of the issues that Inland seems to be having with soft (i.e. unsafe) bolts

[DaveHH]

Details surrounding barrel bands and how they fit are not uncommon with genuine guns. Having an upper handguard that obscures the sight picture is also not uncommon in the genuine gun. A few minutes with a small jeweler's file can cure almost all of the issues and achieve a nice fit and snap of the band spring. These problems are excusable when they were making a couple thousand guns each day, but seem to me to be unacceptable on these new guns. I also wonder how well these new guns would run if the shooter used a nice gob of grease in the slide recess and on the receiver rails? Especially during the break in period. By design these things require lubrication to operate and Rem Oil (or any really light oil) is about as good as water. When the suspected fault is poor hardfacing, a dry or poorly lubricated gun will have all manner of issues as opposed to a well greased unit.