Rear Sight Work

[INLAND44]

I just moved my rear (adjustable) sight over to center the aperture after sighting it in. I decided to give it a go without the sight removal tool. It had to go left, and I was not about to try to force it over against the taper - nobody wants to see a receiver dovetail crack off. So I just tapped it to the right with a small non-marring hammer (nylon tip). It moved, so I knew I was going to be good. Oil had collected under it and there was no corrosion - BTW, it's a rebuild. The receiver dovetails had only very small chisel-point staking from the original flip sight. The adjustable had been staked using the sight base rather than the receiver. I lightly sanded the bottom of the sight wedge and tried it several times before judging that it was going to work without excessive force. At that point I degreased the sight wedge and receiver dovetail, applied some blue Loctite and tapped it into place. I had marked both parts when I got home from the range last time and it came out so the base would have to be very nearly centered, which I liked a lot . I don't expect it to shoot loose, but if it does I can tighten it up and do it over. I had planned to take it to the show tomorrow and see if I could get Gus Fischer to do it the right way, but I just couldn't resist giving it a try.
This is an H.I. milled sight on my Inland 4927xxx and it has the adjustable indexing plate on the rear. It was previously too far to the right to get the index plate centered with the aperture well left. This kind of thing irritates me and I have been thinking of doing this for some time. Now I can take it back out and set the aperture and index plate for good.

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[painter777]

Enjoy that deep breath........ !

[INLAND44]

Charlie; sounds like you have 'been there'! I'm doing more and more of my gun work these days. My next job is to try to tighten the plunger tube on my Taurus PT1911B. I bought the Brownell's 'C'-shaped screw tool, about the cheapest way to do it. I already had a 'smith try it, and he had a double-pointed tool that does both places at once. Evidently, the Taurus is not mil-spec in the plunger tube as the two legs were just barely too far apart for the two-way tool to work, which is why I bought the single. If it doesn't work, at least I have the tool with which to install the replacment tube. I already know to 'chamfer' the holes (if it's not already done) if I have to replace it. Actually I can probably shoot it for years without doing anything because it has only a slight movement when working the safety, but it's not the kind of thing you want to let go.