How much is it going to cost me

[imarangemaster]

With my racker CMP Inland about two weeks out, I have decided to "restore it to WWII configuration, not necessarily entirely "correct" though, just correct appearance for the shadow box. As it is an Inland, I suppose an Inland flip sight should be not to expensive, though, especially if used. The Type 1A band I know will cost a bit, though unmarked is correct for some Inlands, so if a marked Inland band is too high, I'll probably find a decent repro.

I am lucky because my Underwood has an almost complete type III Inland trigger housing group (except IW push safety), and my Slide and bolt from the Underwood are also Inland.

I am leaving the Underwood unmolested except for the new SA potbelly it is in as my home/farm weapon and carbine match rifle (ME of 1). It is dialed in perfect fo 100 yards. I have an Underwood round bolt (replacement contract) and Type VI Inland slide if I need them for the Underwood.

Most rackers are now coming with WW2 stocks with repairs in need of cleaning, so I will just clean it and keep it on for appearance even if it is not Inland. So that leaves the question: What should I expect to spend for a well used Inland flip and 1A band? I have seen prices all over the place on CMP market place, and trust no one on Ebay.

Mr. Ricca, sir, any input from you? I did not see either of these listed on your site.

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[Wulf]

It costs a wad to get it back right. Any original flip site will be at least $150. All early parts ar expensive, hard to find and often humped.

[ulflyer]

If you want to go with a repro band & rear sight, you can prob trade any non-Inland parts for what you need with little output other than shipping. Before you buy the band, make sure the front sight will come off; I've got a couple where the pin wouldn't budge even with hard pounding. Others pop right out. The wood may be a bit harder to trade, depending on maker and condition and if you need to buy a stock you're prob looking at $100-150, $30-40 for handguard.

[imarangemaster]

Thanks,

I know that at least for now I will probably use repros (about35 for the band and sight). Most of the rackers are coming in ugly but fixable war time stocks. If not, I have the LW National Postal Meter stock I took off my Underwood to put the pot belly on it. I don't want to trade it off, though, as it was a Mash Az carbine and has the Underwoods serial number stamped in it.

Like I said, I am not worried about doing a correct "restoral," just a visual restoral. It would be nice, though (since I have a bunch of Inland to go on it already) to have as much Inland as possible.

[painter777]

Best to decide after you get it.
Heavy scars from bayo pads could deter you from wanting a early band on it.
Barrel color from the shading of a bayo also stand out.
Crater type punch stake marks look horrible when trying to cover them up with a repro flip.
Keeping repro guys in business my buying their wares just hurts.........

Decide when you get it. You will be the first civy that owns it.


Cheers,
Charlie-painter777

[imarangemaster]

Charlie,

Good point. I have seen some with horrendous stakes and really deep type III band crushes on the nose! I will resist temptation and see what I get. Worst case I will put it in the shadow box "as is," realizing that most people don't know bayonet lugs and adjustable sights are late to post war changes. Besides, maybe I will get a really late Inland, and those items MAY BE original!