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  1. #1
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    madcratebuilder's Avatar
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    Fore-end tie plate

    How tight should the fore-end tie plate screw be? I don't want to over compress the wood.
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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

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    What rifle do you refer to, the no4mk2? If so, the answer is, don't crush the wood, but over time its almost impossible to avoid chewing into the soft organic surface with a metal nut.
    Is there supposed to be a brass washer in that hole?
    Seeing as how much the army feared soldiers toying with their own rifles I'd bet Mr Laidlericon has a precise answer on this and I'd like to know too...

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    Th SCREW, Tie, fore-end should be just tight enough to stop the back end of the fore-end from spreading. It was also punched to prevent the nut from unscrewing. It was also well recssed into the wood so the usual tinkering squaddie (we called them crunchies in Australiaicon. Do they still?) couldn't get to it. We always knew when they'd been taking the fore-ends and handguards off because the band screws would be cack-handed instead of ALWAYS going in from the left to right (just follow the lead of the rear trigger guard screw)

    There was a way of patching these holes when they failed but it's a bit long winded so I'll do an illustrated article when I get a few hours to myself, together with the CORRECT way to patch stripped butt screw threads so that they're better than new!

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