How do I know if my Husqvarna M1907 is matching? Well... (pics)

[Claven2]

If anyone is so inclined to find out if a husqvarna M1907, which is a licensed copy of an M1903 Browning in 9mm Browning Long, is all matching, I remembered to snap some pics of an all matching one I detail stripped and cleaned today.

The slide is only numbered on the inside:

The frame and barrel are obvious. As an aside, on this pistol you can see the area normally under the slide lock is not blasted. This means the pistol is a refurb of a 1920's or earlier pistol that was originally finished smooth with rust blue. Starting in the 1930's or so, the factory finish was sandblasting covered with chemical blueing. When the guns were refurbed, they were sandblasted prior to disassembly to protect the mating surfaces between the slide and frame.


Also during a field strip you could see the feed block and the barrel bushing:


The rest of the numbered bits require a details strip. I can't say I recommend this for most folks as for whatever reason and unlike most Browning designs, this one is a BEAR to put back together, but in case you are brave...
Trigger:

Rear of hammer:

Back of mag release:

Inside the automatic safety:

And on the inside of the grips if you have a pre-1930 gun with original grips:


Note that the original grips were some kind of hard rubber that tended to dry out and crack after a decade or two so it's not uncommon to see replacement grips from the 1930's and 1940's on these made of black bakelite. The bakelite grips are not serialized, but do have a logo that looks like this:


Hope that helps someone looking to see where their pistol should be matching.

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[Claven2]

Since I mentioned re-assembly, there are about 3 different ways to try to reassemble the pistol, but two of them will get you 90% finished and then you'll realize you can't fit the grip safety and have to start over! I gave up trying to photograph re-assembly as much of it is internal and too finicky to photograph without a cutaway pistol, but in general, the order is as follows (reference the drawings at the bottom for part numbers):

1) Insert the trigger (19)
2) Install the mag release (18), springs 20 and 21, the automatic safety (22) and the pin (23).
3) Install parts 9, 10 and 11. Note the orientation of the hooks on part 9 and the direction part 10 faces. You insert these through the trigger opening where the mag goes.
4) Install feed lips (16).
5) (12, 13 and 14) are an assembly - keep them assembled and now re-install them using the safety to retain. This is a bear to do and a third hand helps. You have to compress the hammer spring in the notch just forward of the hammer roller and get the safety pin through the frame and hammer. By far, this is the hardest part of assembly.
6) Install the slide stop (17).
7) Install the grips.
8) If you removed it, re-install the extractor assembly to the slide.
9) Install the recoil spring 36,37 and 38 to the FRAME.
10) re-install the firing pin to the slide.
11) Put the slide back onto the frame taking care that the recoil spring button slides into the slide's dust shield. You will need to apply a little force to get the slide to go over the hammer, which you should cock first with your finger.
12) Put the slide at the slide lock notch, then insert the barrel and rotate it 90 degrees. Disengage the slide lock and allow the slide to come forward until you can engage the safety into the take-down notch. rotate the barrel back to the upright position to engage the locking lugs. Now disengage the safety and allow the slide to go into battery.
13) Install the barrel bushing - Done!!!

[Claven2]

From left to right:

1) .38 Super Brass. 2) .38 Super trimmed to 9mm BL 3) Once fired 9mm BL made from .38 Super.



Trimming:


The trimming setup is an older Lyman universal trimmer. Lyman still makes them but they are a little different and are, of course, orange now vs. the grey mine is - lol. There's literally dozens of pilot sizes as well. Mine came with a few as I got it used many years back, but I make new ones as required on the lathe as I'm frankly too impatient to order new pilots and wait for them to arrive! For this calibre I use a .352" pilot I made up myself, but the standard 9mm pilot from Lyman is the same thing.

[Claven2]

And now for some loaded ammo comparisons. Left to Right: 1) 9mm Para 2) 9mm Browning Long 3) .380 Auto.



For my starter load for 9mm BL I'm going with 3.9gr of HP38 (aka W231). Starter load for 9mm para in the Lee and Hornady manuals for HP38 is 4.3gr with 1100fps velocity. Although the BL case capacity is more, the bullet needs to be deep-seated to an OAL of only 1.10" to fit the mag, so useful capacity for the BL is actually slightly LESS than in 9mm para if, like me, you use readily available standard 115gr 9mm para projectiles. .380 auto projectiles would perhaps be better allowing greater case capacity and lower pressure, but alas I didn't find any when I went shopping - lol.

In any event, I lowered the 9mm para minimum load of 4.3 to about 10 percent less at 3.9gr. I'm thinking I should get about 1050fps and close to starter 9mm para pressures which should be about right and still cycle the action. I'll post more when I've had a chance to try it out at the range.

For the record:

- Cases are Starline .38 Super +P brass trimmed to .790"
- Primer are Winchester small pistol primers
- Bullets are Remington 115gr 9mm (.355")
- Powder is some W231 I had on the shelf, 3.9gr. I'm told W231 is being completely replaced by the equivalent HP38, so loads should interchange.