Ross sbarrel thread?

[Grump09]

Been searching for Ross barrel thread info. Can a smith duplicate this anusual thread?

Information

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[buffdog]

The 1905 Ross Military Mark II rifle (with the exception of the 1905 Military Mark II** Target rifles with the heavier barrel) use a three thread per inch left hand thread. It is possible for a good gunsmith to duplicate this thread by threading from left to right on a lathe, but most lathes do not have the capability of doing three threads per inch as it is a very coarse thread.

If you can locate a copy of the NRA Gunsmith's Guide book, it has thread diagrams of many rifle barrels in it, including the 1905 Ross.

The 1905 Ross Military Mark II** and the 1910 (M-10) rifles use a sixteen threads per inch Buttress type thread and can be duplicated with the proper cutting tool.
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[Grump09]

Thanks buffdog. Mine is the corse thread, I believe the Mark 11. Ive watched for this piece of information in publications for a long time and never come across it. I guess I should have asked sooner. Is it safe to assume an action wrench and barrel vice are needed for the later models?

[buffdog]

Apparently the 1905 Ross Military barrels were made for a quick change. If you disassemble the rifle, and turn the action upside down, with the barrel facing away from you, there is a barrel locking screw located on the angled flat that would be on the right hand side of the receiver ring. This screw fits into a matching flat on the barrel to hold it tight. This screw is about 1/4 inch back from the front edge of the receiver ring.

WARNING There is another slotted round part that LOOKS LIKE A SCREW and is on the BOTTOM FLAT of the action, about one inch back from the front of the receiver ring, behind the front guard screws and near the magazine opening, slightly off center on the right.

DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THIS PIECE. IT IS NOT A SCREW. IT IS THE CAM THAT HELPS ROTATE THE FRONT LOCKING LUGS. You can see this piece if you turn the rifle right side up and look at the locking lug recess, left side, bottom, near the chamber.

Take out the barrel locking screw, squirt some good penetrating oil inside it, and maybe even tap the barrel and receiver ring a bit with a wood block to loosen the dirt and crud on the threads so the oil will penetrate. Leave a day, and repeat.

A good action wrench is something I consider essential, along with proper fitting blocks for the barrel. BE AWARE THAT THIS BARREL HAS A LEFT HAND THREAD, IF IT IS NOT A HEAVY BARRELED MARK II ** TARGET RIFLE.

I have seen Ross Receivers twisted because someone put them in a vise and tried to use a pipe wrench on the barrel. Also be aware that in the the Mark II** and 1910 actions with the finer pitched threads, these barrels were torqued on at 300 foot pounds. Sometimes you have to make a small lathe cut in the barrel to loosen the tension on these models, but you should not have too much trouble with the 1905 Model if you are aware of the "niceties" of removing the barrel.
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[buffdog]

Here is the regular Military Mark II barrel thread from the NRA Gunsmith's Guide book. Unfortunately the thickness of the threads was not printed in the original, and were cut off when it was printed.

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[Grump09]

Thanks again buffdog I have taken the barrel off before and used great care in doing so. I'll keep this info for later reference.

[Grump09]

1905 ROSS

Had to get her out to go over some of these stock ID numbers with you folks.



Left side rec . Ross Rifle Co. Quebec Canada 1905
Right side stock 4.12 over S.75 over 64 over 3* over II . 610 X over 1907
Under wrist behind R sight US over 6827 Barrel left side behind R sight under wood 5588
Large upside down C both sides of butt.
R sight Canada Tool& Spc Co.

The barrel has been shortened to 24" W sporter Front sight added.

Just a shooter with an interesting past?

[buffdog]

Pictures would help a lot. It would appear that you have a 1905 Ross Military Mark II *** rifle. There were approximately 20,000 of these sold to the United States for training purposes. These were marked with the U.S. serial numbers.

The Ross serial number is a combination of numbers/year date and Alphabetic letters. Your serial number should be 610X over 1907 plus two letters to the right of this. I assume the X in the 610X is what you put in to not fully identify the serial number. However, Ross serial numbers only went from 1 to 999 over the year number. When the number reached 999, the Alphabetic number progressed one letter.

For example : Your rifle could be 610 over 1907 ## where the ## could be one or two letters from A to Z or AA, AB, AC, etc.

If you want better or more information, post some good pictures of the markings, especially the right side of the butt stock.
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[Grump09]

I thought I might have posted the first history question in the wrong place so I re-posted it.
610X over 1907 is the complete number. X must be the letter you refer to in a ser. number
Does 3* mean a slight modification than perhaps a ** or *** etc?
The 4.12 over S.75 over 64 must be the confuseing part
Have never done anything with pics before, will have to look into that.
Thanks for the help, I really appreceate it.

[Grump09]

:Here are some pics I hope! I think I navigated through OK! If I did the creator of that process could teach my blind dog to tie shoes!!