M1 Garand gas cylinder lock fit - re-hash

[mshehan]

I've found numerous posts, mostly older, about the proper "lock-up" of the Garand cylinder lock. It made me think of a few questions that I don't think were answered. Or at least I'm looking for answers to questions that I can understand. Here they are:

- Was the rifle designed to have the lock bottom out on the chamfered shoulder of the barrel @ 6 o'clock? I just can't imagine millions of rifles having hand fitted locks. The chamfer both on the barrel and lock seem like basic machining practices.

- Does having the lock not bottom out on the shoulder make for an inaccurate rifle? It does seem that it's another positive stop in order to shore up the lock/cylinder assembly to prevent any movement/loosening. Is this a case of every little bit helps?

- I've found my lock stops @ 12 o'clock. I simply backed it off to 6 o'clock and tapped the cylinder up to the lock (from the bayonet lug, of course). I haven't considered this a final assembly until the jury returns (the fine folks in this forum). The cylinder is still snug on the barrel. I can see a possibilty that the assembly might loosen at some point, being that the cylinder friction might be the only thing holding it from moving, and there's always play in the threads.
-A note on this: It makes sense to me that if I place the cylinder far enough forward to allow the lock to move the cylinder back just enough to snug up @ 6 o'clock, should this be adequate? I read a concern about stress on the threads due to this process. I would think a properly snug (not tight) cylinder should allow the assembly the move in this way. Add the gas plug, tighten it sufficiently, and I believe you have the next best thing to the perfect fitting cylinder lock. I'm sure tens of thousands of nice Garands must be this way.

I'm sure I have more questions, just can't think of them now. Thanks all.

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