Scope mount rear leg.

[read6737]

I bought some No4 bits from a person on ebay nearly 3yrs ago now.
He added in the rear leg as an extra.

The only info I could get out of him was that it was the last bit he had,
and that all the rest had been disposed of.

Can any one one identify the serial No.?
Any other comments ?

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[Roger Payne]

The serial would be consistent with a BSA Shirley of 1943 vintage.
Oddly enough there was the front end of a No32 bracket on 'that auction site' only a matter of days ago. Not sure if the sale has now finished though.

ATB

[read6737]

Thanks for the info.

I went to have a look for the sale but could not see it.
Under what was it listed?
Did any one else see it?

A few years ago I tried to get the front part of a mount that
was with a scope on ebay but the buyer did not want to sell it.

[Peter Laidler]

[/COLOR]I would imagine that the difficult part, even if you got the front bit, would be the cradle cap.

That aside, any of you welding experts out there in forumland know how you weld malleable cast iron?

[Rastis]

Pre heat then weld with stainless steel welding rods. Another option is to use Metal spray.

[Brit plumber]

Part of telescopic sight mount for Lee Enfield No4T Sniping Rifle | eBay

[Bruce_in_Oz]

Subject to knowing things like the nature of the surfaces to be joined and the load to which they will be subjected, an alternative may be to use a high silver-content silver "solder" (braze).

I have been using this technique for years to, for instance, join stainless steel to carbon steel and for odd jobs that involve very small components. If the mating surfaces are clean and close-fitting, silver-solder will provide an extremely strong join without too much risk of "cooking" the components. The rods are not exactly cheap, but, like "Brylcreem", "a little dab will do ya'". The premixed metal powder and flux version is handy in some circumstances as well.

You can't blue or phosphate over the "braze-line" but that's about the only disadvantage.

[jmoore]

an alternative may be to use a high silver-content silver "solder" (braze).

That would be my choice. Uncle Floyd repaired many tools in this manner, including a grey cast iron vise which survived many more years of use.

[Beerhunter]

I would normally call joining with silver alloy silver soldering rather than brazing which suggests the use of brass or bronze as the filler. Mind you I haven't done this stuff for forty years and so the nomenclature may have changed in that time.

[Roger Payne]

Sorry Mr Read, I lied! Brit plumber's link is the one -- & it was in fact the back end, like yours. My apologies!

ATB