To bed or not to bed a Lee Enfield No.1 Mk 3

[British Mandarin]

I would be very pleased if you guys here could offer me some advice. I am rather young and I'll be honest in saying I don't even have a Lee Enfield in my hands just quite yet. However, I want to learn and read as much as possible before thinking about messing around (or getting someone to mess around for me) with one of these historic rifles. The Lee Enfield has a special place in my heart as the rifle my countrymen and the rest of the British Empire fought with. As you know, people who stood behind this rifle were of every nationality and race, fighting for the same King and Empire, so this rifle means a lot to me and you can be sure I would like to take care of it and make it the best it could be.

With the No.1 Mk 3, I want to make the rifle as accurate as 1-2 MOA but at the same time I don't want to possibly damage the rifle and wreck its originality by bedding it with something like epoxy. I was thinking about using cork but as I've read so far from Peter Laidler, that isn't exactly going to do the job very well since cork could shrink over time and the with all the results of the testing done with different methods of bedding, it isn't the one to provide the most accurate results.

In short I don't really want anything big done on the rifle that will be permanent and irreversible but I want to make the rifle accurate enough for competition. Is there anyway to go about doing that?

I am terribly sorry if my questions seem a bit daft or jumbled up! Like I said I am a bit young and still trying to learn. Thank you in advance.

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[ssj]

First thing is it depends on the type of competition you wish to do. If its service rifle then the spirit of the event should be followed, ie if the rules state as issued only no mods allowed then you should obey this. If like me however you shoot prone target style then the rifle has to be accurised to be allowed to shoot on the range. Since my rifles have been acurised by the likes of Parker Hale and then later by tinkerers there is no huge loss in value for me if I epoxy it further as they are not original. If you want a good, as stock shooter then the Pattern1914 is worth considering and the No4 mk2 as the two better choices to start with IMHO. If your competition rules allows the "H" barrels in the no1 mkIII then this would be the setup to find. So first thing is what competition(s) will you be shooting in? I do service rifle and target so have guns for each, "as issued" and modified.

[British Mandarin]

Thanks for your reply. What if I decided to get the SMLE for as issued service rifle shooting and a No. 4 for "prone target style?" I would like to know the two different routes.

Btw at Camp Perry/Bisley and similar competitions, bedding isn't allowed right?

[Thunderbox]

If you have no experience with Enfields (or other rifles) then don't even consider accurising issues at this stage.

You really need to obtain a standard No1 MkIII and/or a No4, and spend a lot of time shooting them and understanding how they work.

IMHO, trying to accurise a No1 is a complete waste of time unless you already an accomplished shot with the standard rifle. Most No1s can be made to shoot very well in their standard military configuration. If you are not familiar with the existing tuning methods for the standard rifle, then you'll end up simply butchering an innocent rifle by trying to introduce different bedding.

In the case of No4s, I'd estimate that about 90% of standard rifles can already easily outperform the capabilities of their owners....


In terms of competition regulation, rifles (at Bisley) are categorised as "issued" ("service rifle A" SRa) or modified ("service rifle B" or SRb). A modified rifle will exclude you from standard service competitions, whereas a well-shot standard rifle is eligible for all competitions.


BTW, of the hundreds of rifles I have tested, the absolute top five No1s and top five No4s were all standard rifles. Its very subjective as to whether its the extra bedding that makes a difference at all. By far the greatest influences are (1) barrel condition (2) ammunition (3) the shooter...

[CINDERS]

There are so many variables to be answered here BM one could rabbit on for days with no conclusive answer, you could buy a shagged weapon with umpteen faults, best to shop around and utilize the local knowledge where you live and on this site to procure the weapon and go from there. After field trials at the range the panel and wise pelicans here can then hopefully assist with the results you may encounter good and bad but seriously like the rest of us you will never stop at just owning one they are that addictive..............

[Robert303]

Where are you and what club do you shoot with? The reason I ask is it might have some bearing on what you can get and what rules are in force.
For instance in Australia there will be more heavy barrelled SMLEs than say the USA.
Does the club you are in have many people shooting No4s and SMLEs? If so talk to members, esp the ones who get high scores!
At best one of them might be selling a rifle or might be able to 'Test' one that you are thinking of buying.
As others have said you need to establish your level of shooting so that you can be confident when shooting your SMLE or No 4 that it is not a faulty one.
If your shooting is not up to scratch it is too easy to blame the rifle.
Thunderbox at Post No 4 has given the best advice so I suggest you take your time and follow it.

[Seaspriter]

If you want a good, as stock shooter then the Pattern1914 is worth considering and the No4 mk2 as the two better choices to start with IMHO.

If you have no experience with Enfields (or other rifles) then don't even consider accurising issues at this stage.

Take the wise advice of these experts. Keep it simple to start. A No.4 Mk2 can be bought very reasonably in near-to-brand-new condition. Or buy a No.4 Mk1/2 or Mk1/3 FTR that has been Factory Thorough Repaired and then surplused (everything on it is essentially "factory reconditioned."). I like ssj's suggestion of a P-14 (it's heavy which has its +/-) but you might not find a WWI gun in as perfect condition as a No.4 Mk2 or FTR.

[Flying10uk]

Can you clarify what exactly you are thinking of bedding with cork/epoxy? Is it the receiver or barrel or both? I believe that the No4 had a fully floating barrel.

[Peter Laidler]

Nope.......... No4 had a bedded barrel for 2" x 3/8" wide, centrally at the muzzle end! Plus for the length of the Nocks form x3/8" too. There WAS a wartime relaxation but that was rescinded as soon as the war ended. There was never a relaxation for the No1 or the No4T

[British Mandarin]

I totally agree with Thunderbox and I had no intention of doing anything to the rifle until I properly understood the rifle and could shoot it well. His advice is pretty logical and it is something I will stick by for sure. While it is too early for me to seriously start considering accurizing the rifle, I don't think it hurts to ask how the bedding works on the SMLE because I am genuinely interested.

@Robert I'm in Canada, where No.4's seem to be more popular than SMLE's.
@Flying I don't really have anything specific in mind, whatever can be bedded and should be bedded to improve accuracy on a SMLE.