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03A3 rear sight dovetail restoration
A few years back I purchased a sported Smith Corona 03A3 on line with an eye towards making it into a 03Aforgery for the CMP
vintage sniper match. It had a Lyman 48 rear target sight on it and the prior owner had filed off the rear sight dovetail, to mount the Lyman sight lower, I guess.
I'm still interested in mounting a Redfield scope base on it, but am not certain that it can be done, sine the proper base is made to fit around the original rear sight dovetail.
Anyone know whether it is feasible to weld in or by some other means restore the rear sight dovetail?
Thanks
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08-02-2015 10:35 PM
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It should be feasible. The hardest part will be finding a smith willing to try. And its not likely to be an inexpensive project as you have to add metal, shape it, drill and tap, refinish, and install the base. Redfield Jr (or Leupold STD) base is probably the way to go.
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It's a relativity easy repair with no change in receiver metal temper at the locking area. You will need a piece of hot rolled steel the width of the receiver area .5 x .125 thick after the scale has been removed. Don't use cold rolled steel as it will buckel from the heat, and don't use tool steel flat stock as it will harden from the heat and you will encounter problems when cutting the dovetail. Drill a 1/4" hole dead center through your new piece to be welded to the receiver. When the piece is located in the correct position, Tig weld up the 1/4" hole so the puddle is slightly raised above surface of the part. This will give you material to skim the top when your finish machining it. I would advise against putting the dovetail on the part prior to welding it on as you risk a slight misalignment perpendicular to centerline of receiver. 1.5 hour maximum time to repair.
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Originally Posted by
LJUTIC
Don't use cold rolled steel as it will buckel from the heat,
So will the hot rolled, trust me. If I'm understanding correctly your suggesting plug welding the piece to be added via the 1/4'' hole in the center, right? This will cause the add on piece to curl up on the ends as the weld cools. Weld has enormous drawing strength. I've seen it pull grade 8 bolts until they break. Also, the rear base screw has to go somewhere around or about the center and drilling/tapping through weld is often problematic.
My suggestion is to attach the piece being grafted with two countersunk screws and low temp soft solder, the way No.4T scope pads are attached. You could either machine the dovetail to it's finished dimensions, use the base to locate it correctly and solder in place then add the two cs screws or start with a blank and screw/solder it first then mill the dovetail last as suggested above.
Last edited by vintage hunter; 08-03-2015 at 02:18 PM.
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Originally Posted by
vintage hunter
So will the hot rolled, trust me. If I'm understanding correctly your suggesting plug welding the piece to be added via the 1/4'' hole in the center, right? This will cause the add on piece to curl up on the ends as the weld cools. Weld has enormous drawing strength. I've seen it pull grade 8 bolts until they break.
My suggestion is to attach the piece being grafted with two countersunk screws and low temp soft solder, the way No.4T scope pads are attached. You could either machine the dovetail to it's finished dimensions, use the base to locate it correctly and solder in place then add the two cs screws or start with a blank and screw/solder it first then mill the dovetail last as suggested above.
If there is any buckling what so ever wether it's up or down can be corrected. If it decides to buckle up and not down it can be Tig on either side. Once the receiver is setup the sides can be skimmed. Trust me, a welded part is integral with the receiver.
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You still have the issue of bending the bolt once you replace the dovetail. I assume you have that covered? Please don't forget the sporterized A4 you have to put together.
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Originally Posted by
rugersworld
You still have the issue of bending the bolt once you replace the dovetail. I assume you have that covered? Please don't forget the sporterized A4 you have to put together.
I'll need to have the bolt turned down.
I've still got that sporterized 03A4, but lately I've been considering restoring it to original condition...after reading this thread.
O3-A4 Project is Complete! - CMP Forums
If I do restore it, not sure I would want to use it in the matches.
Anyway I cut this, it looks like the thing to do would be to buy a drill rifle receiver and use my parts to build it up, instead of trying to repair this one. Guess I need to get ChuckinDenver's opinion on the AIM 03A3 receiver/bolt combos...they are only about $120. The alternative is to find a sported 03A3 that has been messed with, but is still salvageable. I'm watching a few on the auctions.
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I'm wondering why it needs to be welded at all. There appears to be enough material on the existing bridge to hold the base screw and, since you are not trying to attach an original sight, why not just use a piece of steel (or aluminum for that matter) cut to the right dimensions and treat it like a very thick shim. Drill an oversize hole through it, attach it to the bridge with epoxy or whatever, d&t the bridge (through the oversize hole), and use an extra long screw to secure the rear of your Redfield base.
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A few weeks ago I posted about a SC 03A3 that I have and was planning on converting to a 03A4gery, but had found that the reverse dovetail had been ground off. Readers offered some suggestions for restoring the reverse dovetail, but I decided getting a recovered drill rifle receiver might make more sense.
I was poking around on the auctions and found this instead. It arrived, along with a second rifle that I glommed, at my FFL today.


Description advised:
Smith Corona Model 03A3 .30-06 caliber, 24" barrel, S/N 36179xx, barrel dated SC 2-42. Original parkerized finish on the receiver and barrel. A new sporting stock added. Condition: Excellent.
I gave the rifle a quick once-over before it went into my FFL's safe for the obligatory 10-day "cooling off" period. It looked like the barrel was dated 2-42, which is very early. It also looked like it might have 6 grooves. The bore and metal looked in great shape.
Also, most importantly, it still has the reverse dovetail intact
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