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Legacy Member
Long Branch trigger geometry
On my 42 Long Branch, on which I installed that set of blond LB wood that was on a No 4 Mk 2, someone had modified the forend such that you don't need the bushing on the kingscrew. The hole is sized to be the bushing. When I put it together, using the No 4 Mk 1* trigger/mag housing, there is that little projection sticking up which normally contacts the bushing and spaces things correctly. Well, in this case, with the screw tight, the trigger housing is down a bit from the forend, spaced down by that projection, which is not really great. I'm not eager to take a 42 LB trigger housing to my bench grinder, but grinding that projection off would no doubt make it sit down where it should be. The No 4 Mk 2 housing is flat there already, but I can't use it as it doesn't have a trigger and I need it anyway to put the No 4 Mk 2 back together when I get the forend I'm waiting for(which came today :-) ).
I like things to be reversible, but perhaps in this case...what would you do? Anyone have a nice grey parked No 4 Mk I trigger/mag housing that's already ground or would sell reasonably?
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Last edited by Cantom; 02-01-2007 at 05:16 PM.
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02-01-2007 12:11 PM
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Advisory Panel
If you are restoring the rifle, why not drill out the hole and install the bushing the way it was meant to be. Besides, the lack of the bushing can result in incorrect trigger geometry, or varying trigger geometry. You didn't have to worry about the dimensions of the wood on a mk2 since the trigger was hung from the receiver. But on a mk1, any varyance in the stock's thickness will effect trigger pull.
But then again, if you shoot as poorly as I do, it won't really matter anyway.
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Legacy Member

Originally Posted by
stencollector
If you are restoring the rifle, why not drill out the hole and install the bushing the way it was meant to be. Besides, the lack of the bushing can result in incorrect trigger geometry, or varying trigger geometry. You didn't have to worry about the dimensions of the wood on a mk2 since the trigger was hung from the receiver. But on a mk1, any varyance in the stock's thickness will effect trigger pull.
But then again, if you shoot as poorly as I do, it won't really matter anyway.
Hahaha...I hate to admit that it probably wouldn't make much difference accuracywise, plus I'm not exactly burning up the .303 ammo I have since it's not so easy to replace anymore. I just enjoy making things right, it is what makes me tick...someone did such a nice job modding this forend to Mk 2, I hate to mess with it...it's kind of a convertible forend. It's all glassed, like acraglas or something. It'll work fine with no bushing.


Last edited by Cantom; 02-01-2007 at 05:22 PM.
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Advisory Panel
If you want to go the distance restoring it, I likely have a couple of sporterised #4 lowers that still have the tie plate across the back end. I usually just throw them in to the woodstove, and I think there is one languishing underneath the kindling pile now.
You can use some of the wood to repair the missing portion where the trigger mount went on the mk2. I have seen these repaired over the years as well. Seems like the military would sometimes reverse their misdeeds when required.
Intersting where they installed the splice forward of the screw. Was this a repair of a existing crack, or a preemptive repair of a commonly cracked area?
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