Straightening a backsight ladder - Part 2 straightening
Now we have an idea of how it happened, we can think about fixing it.
It will be easier to do this if you can remove the backsight ladder. However, if this is not feasible without damage, then it would be possible to straighten the sight without removing it, but you will need a very secure fixing to hold the rifle. I don't think that dropping a T-Gewehr would be a good idea
You need two engineers clamps of a suitable size. If you do not have any, take the trouble to borrow a couple before trying any lash-ups with wrenches etc. The advantage of engineeers clamps is that they can be adjusted for a very good parallel grip AND serve as alignment tools. But cover the jaw surfaces with tape (in yellow here) before applying them to the backsight ladder!
The first/larger clamp is fixed to the lower section of the ladder, close to the jammed slider. Note that just about any vice would be too wide to hold this section, because of the boss for the axis pin.
Take your time to set it up square!
Now attach the smaller clamp to the upper section, also close to the jammed slider. And take your time here as well.
Clamping the ladder close to the slider ensures that the straightening (which is a counter-bending) takes place where the bends happened (see part 1) and not further away. If you do not clamp the ladder in this manner, it will take slight bends outside the slider area, resulting in a multiple S-Z curve that will be well-nigh impossible to remove.
You will see in the example that the severe right-angled nature of engineers clamps means that the clamping screws themselves show up any bends. If the ladder is perfectly straight, then the screws on both clamps will be parallel.
And if not, which for your ladder is certainly the case, then the trick is to bend the ladder by forcing the far end of the screw on the smaller clamp Left or Right to correct a bend - OR Up/Down to correct a twist - until the screws on both clamps are parallel horizontally and vertically. I.e. you can use this setup to correct a bend AND a twist! This should not require a wrench of any kind. But if it does, then use the wrench (ugh!) on the parallel clamp jaws between the two screws, and not on the clamp screw itself
This will be easier if you can remove the backsight and mount the entire assembly in a bench vice...
I used this method on the backsight for an Enfield No1MkV which had been knocked skewy - i.e. bent in all 3 axes into a twisted parallelogram! Your case should be much easier. It might not be micron-precise, but should be accurate enough to be able to move the slider, which will then probably be a bit loose on the ladder, its slots having been widened by the bending (See Part 1). It will then be necessary to close up the slider a bit to prevent it being sloppy.
It worked for me, it'll work for you.
Good luck - and go carefully
Patrick
Last edited by Patrick Chadwick; 02-17-2022 at 01:48 PM.
Reason: Horizontal/vertical correction mixed up.
Patrick this is excellent! I am in LA till Thursday and will be ordering two clamps. My colleagues are educators who should never own tools and have none to load. So, I will be securing two clamps shortly. When I get home next week, will give it a go.
Also dealing with the missing large, action screw. Need to the thread pitch as we prepare for possibly making a new one.
I have been able to move the slider but unable to remove the slider/rail from the sights. I am also unable to remove base from the rifle. At this point, I am hesitant to try to force the issue as this rifle is in fine condition. I am trying not to go for with the mallet, tape, and wood. Thanks, Randy
I meant the sight coming out of the base. Not the adjustment of the slider. They should depress at the front and unseat from the base, come off the rifle.
Like this...look at about 20 second mark.
Last edited by browningautorifle; 02-25-2022 at 01:08 AM.
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