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  1. #11
    Legacy Member BVZ24's Avatar
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    Someone here might say I'm crazy, but for temporary touch ups, on a shooter grade rifle, try mixing a small cup of dye-matched canned shellac. Brush it in with a fine paint brush where damaged.
    It's fast drying, doesn't react with the oil, easy to work with, slightly more durable than the linseed oilicon shell, and easily removed with denatured alcohol when the time comes.
    It was the finish of choice for the Russians, if that matters.

    Edit: Beware the gloss. Any repair you attempt is going to stick out if the repair finish is more reflective than the original finish. You need to buff out the gloss after it dries.
    Last edited by BVZ24; 06-12-2022 at 10:14 AM.

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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Chuck in Denver ... Buy-Sell-Trade .. Guns, Cars Motorcycles Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

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    Contributing Member Singer B's Avatar
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    I was given some great advice last year on this site ref purchasing raw linseed oilicon on Amazon. I was able to get a large can of it at a much better price than what I was paying for the small bottles at the art/crafts store.

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    Advisory Panel Brian Dick's Avatar
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    The Sunnyside brand RLO is also available through Tru-Value Hardware stores. I found it in Greenwood, SC about 30 miles north of here. It's a bit cheaper there than on Amazon with the shipping.

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    Legacy Member oldfoneguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Singer B View Post
    I was given some great advice last year on this site ref purchasing raw linseed oilicon on Amazon. I was able to get a large can of it at a much better price than what I was paying for the small bottles at the art/crafts store.
    Raw and boiled linseed oil can be found in most Lowes or Home Depot stores that's where I got my BLOicon. They can be found in cans that range from a quart to 5 gallons.

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    Contributing Member Troglodyte's Avatar
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    Making a wood stain

    @Roger Payneicon You mentioned the possibility of using the ground root in a homemade stain.

    Can you share a link or recipe for that? I'd like to create a wood stain using ground root and turpentine, but I'm not sure where to start.

    My early attempts painted on nicely, dried well, and vanished as soon as I ran a clean rag over the "stained" area.

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    I haven't tried it myself yet Troglodyte. IIRC the advice came from Brian, so he might be able to help you out. Meantime I will try & find the correspondence between us from the time when we discussed it.....

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    Advisory Panel Brian Dick's Avatar
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    I don't grind it up. I just place some cut alkanet roots in a quart jar and fill it up with raw linseed oilicon. I've never cut the RLO with turps as it's not necessary IMHO. If you're in a hurry, use boiled linseed oilicon as it has chemical driers in it to speed up the process. It doesn't penetrate as well and is more like varnish when dry. It's also not the original finish which is a put off for me. The raw linseed oil turns red overnight when you add the cut roots. I just keep topping off the jar as I use it. Being in Texas, you ought not need to cut it with turps to get it to dry. Just use Mother Nature like I do here in boiling hot South Carolina. Peter L. told me many years ago that they added a powder to the big tanks of warmed raw linseed oil at the big workshops in the UK and Far East. They never knew the composition of the powder but my guess is alkanet. It's been used in the Britishicon gun trade for hundreds of years.

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    Contributing Member Singer B's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Dickicon View Post
    I don't grind it up. I just place some cut alkanet roots in a quart jar and fill it up with raw linseed oilicon. I've never cut the RLO with turps as it's not necessary IMHO. If you're in a hurry, use boiled linseed oil as it has chemical driers in it to speed up the process. It doesn't penetrate as well and is more like varnish when dry. It's also not the original finish which is a put off for me. The raw linseed oil turns red overnight when you add the cut roots. I just keep topping off the jar as I use it. Being in Texas, you ought not need to cut it with turps to get it to dry. Just use Mother Nature like I do here in boiling hot South Carolina. Peter L. told me many years ago that they added a powder to the big tanks of warmed raw linseed oil at the big workshops in the UK and Far East. They never knew the composition of the powder but my guess is alkanet. It's been used in the Britishicon gun trade for hundreds of years.
    Thank you for that historical explanation! I too use only the RLO and let it dry since we live in the southern California desert. As an addition, the RLO also has a beautiful aroma to it that adds to the experience of the firearm. I have had several friends comment about that portion of the experience. I have never had anyone make those comments after using any of my rifles refinished with BLOicon.

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    Advisory Panel Surpmil's Avatar
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    Can't speak to the "rawness" of the product, but I've picked up far more RLO than I should gratis from a local recycle centre over the years in pails from 1L to 4L and artist's bottles as well. Try a centre in your area? Can always ask the staff to put it aside for you....

    A bath in the stuff was the military method of treatment IIRC and that takes some quantity.
    “There are invisible rulers who control the destinies of millions. It is not generally realized to what extent the words and actions of our most influential public men are dictated by shrewd persons operating behind the scenes.”

    Edward Bernays, 1928

    Much changes, much remains the same.

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    Legacy Member harry mac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Payneicon View Post
    I bought some alkanet root not long ago but haven't had time to try it yet. However, one recipe that I have used for over thirty years & which has helped to put a bit of luster back on many a walnut stocked SMLE & 4T is this: Colron wood dye - it is spirit not water based & has the advantage of being readily available from pretty well any hardware/DIY store in the UKicon. I use mainly Indian Rosewood (on its own it is too reddish) with a small amount of Jacobean dark oak added (10 to 20%). The little bit of dark oak readily takes out the excessive reddishness of the Indian Rosewood on its own. Colron do make a walnut stain, but it never looked very convincing to me when I used it.
    Hi Roger. The last lot of Colron dye I looked at in Homebase was water based. It would appear that the old spirit based stuff is now classed as a naughty substance.
    I still have a can each of the oder, spirit based, Indian Rosewood and Jacobean Dark Oak stashed away.

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