No 1 Mk 3 Rescue

[Monkeytwo]

I am "rescuing" (from sporterized back to full wood) a No 1 Mk 3. I was able to secure the wood furniture which was previously used on a DP rifle. To say the wood was coated would be an understatement as it was sticky to the touch. After numerous cleanings using degreaser, a mix of calcium chlorate, acetone and heat to sweat the wood along with elbow grease. I have managed to get the wood to a lighter color (almost light brown, but it always reverts to a dark color after a coat of linseed oil. I would hate to sand it as it shows the original markings. Any ideas / suggestions ??

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[browningautorifle]

Keep sweating it. I used to take my wood to a furniture refinisher for degreasing and they used a magic liquid combination that returned it clean and as issued...even popped out many of the dents. Don't let them sand it though. There should be someone close. Otherwise you're doing what we do.

You're going to get a list of products shortly here that are US and probably not available here in Canada... Most guys center on sweating and wiping.

[BVZ24]

If it's one of those ishapore dp stocks, I had some luck sticking them in a black garbage bag in the sun for a couple days to get the cosmoline out. I do this after I have removed the finish with 5 minute remover and a paint scraper. I follow up with quad zero steel wool if needed.
Mine usually end up a dirty blonde color.
I found that the most half assed way to get it to look good for your average de-sporter is to use a brown/red dye. Do the recommended oil schedule with linseed or Tung oil, and go finish with Tung Oil Finish.

If I do it more correctly I mix dye directly in food grade flax seed oil, and heat it to just below boiling before I apply. I mix in turpentine in for the first few coats.

[BVZ24]

I don't take a lot of pictures, but here are some using the easier method. The butt stock was a walnut example for color match.
I didn't mention that the Ishapore wood is a fair bit harder and less porous than walnut. It does not take stains very well, and you will find the oil does not soak in, only stays on the surface. This wood also will show small crescent flecks when finished. These are hard spots that do not accept stain whatsoever. Some stock makers can use this to their cosmetic advantage, but I am not one of them.

IMG-20200922-164504-6 — ImgBB
IMG-20200922-164328-7 — ImgBB
IMG-20200722-104959-5 — ImgBB

[ssgross]

Plain old calcium carbonate (chalk). Make a paste/strong slurry using a solvent that dissolves whatever is in the wood and will readily evaporate. Acetone for linseed oil over a stain - but this takes many applications since the acetone dries so darn fast. Lacquer thinner or mineral spirits for other wood finishes, etc. Rubbing alcohol works great on alcohol-based stains. After you have all the surface coats removed, then making sure the wood is warm, rub on your paste. Grind it into the wood with your hands and really cake it on. The solvent dissolves whatever is there, and the calcium carbonate absorbs it like a sponge, locking it in when your solvent evaporates.

You can find calcium carbonate by the pound at any local homebrewing store for very cheap. Scrub down with fresh clean solvent and a nylon brush when you are done and enjoy the results. Like I said, it may take several applications depending on what is there and how much. Keep in mind that well aged walnut will always turn out a bit dark, even if it's never been finished before, so don't get too frustrated. You are likely just looking to make your finish nice and even and no longer blotchy from all the grime. You'll get there and it will be grand!

EDIT: Here is a thread with a brand new never finished USGI stock I just started working. You'll be surprised at the dark color of this old wood in the end, with nothing else but raw linseed oil.

[browningautorifle]

hard spots that do not accept stain whatsoever.

For those you can use leather die.

[harry mac]

I don't take a lot of pictures, but here are some using the easier method. The butt stock was a walnut example for color match.
I didn't mention that the Ishapore wood is a fair bit harder and less porous than walnut. It does not take stains very well, and you will find the oil does not soak in, only stays on the surface. This wood also will show small crescent flecks when finished. These are hard spots that do not accept stain whatsoever. Some stock makers can use this to their cosmetic advantage, but I am not one of them.

IMG-20200922-164504-6 — ImgBB
IMG-20200922-164328-7 — ImgBB
IMG-20200722-104959-5 — ImgBB

The fore-end with the flecks looks like beech.

[browningautorifle]

The fore-end with the flecks looks like beech.

Agreed.