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Thread: PPCo Patt18 Scope Repairs

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  1. #1
    Advisory Panel Son's Avatar
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    PPCo Patt18 Scope Repairs

    I have recently obtained a No3T. Where the rifle itself is in very good condition, the scope is a little less so. It was advertised as "been refinished at some stage". To my horror it had been buffed, painted with a primer and then a mat black pressure pack spray (by the look of it) It honestly looked too offensive to photograph it on the rifle. Anyway after a bit of careful deliberation, I decided to attempt to remove the paint. The majority of it came off without much trouble, but the pitting left under the paint still has traces of rust in it. So as not to risk damage to the internals, (which by the way are very clear barring a couple of loose flecks inside, and all functions operate as they should) I stripped them out.
    Now asking advice as to the best/ least harmful way to clean the tube and the most effective way to refinish it perhaps not to new, but to a patina that would be expected given it's age and use.
    Tall order perhaps.. but with the couple of dings in the bell and the pitting evident, I think "new" would be wrong.

    Open to any and all advice.... also on the topic of blackening the inside of the tube and the brass components,

    Here's a couple of pics of the rifle and the close ups of the scope.

    Attachment 49325Attachment 49324

    Attachment 49326Attachment 49328Attachment 49327
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    Peter Laidler's Avatar
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    If it were mine, it'd be out of the rings and straight into the bead blaster, phosphate and paint. We had an old Canadianicon No4TP rifle with a Lyman just like that and guess what.....! Not poriginal, but it can't be original twice is my opinion. It is what it is and you will never replace what's not there.

    There's something remarkably honest and frank about telling someone who asks about its condition after it's been rebuilt, when you tell them that it was badly corroded and crap but it's been refurbished. Just like my old Norton Commando. It ain't factory fresh but it's standard and looks good.

    Just my 2c's worth. But like I say, my pragmatic 2c's worth at that!

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    Legacy Member Craig Eberhardt's Avatar
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    Hey Son,

    Is that the one from the bloke in NT? Great rifle!

    Craig

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    Advisory Panel Son's Avatar
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    Yes, Craig... thats the one. The rifle is all original and all matching. The bore is very good, no sign of corrosion. Overall very happy! As I said the scope in very clear and everything works.

    Thank you for your 2c, Peter. You are right, of course. I am glad I stripped it out, there is still rust evident under where the paint was, so I may have lengthened it's lifespan as long as I can clean and coat it with something reliable. I might research phosphating options... none at work sadly.... What sort of paint would you finish it with?

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    Legacy Member Bindi2's Avatar
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    That is not a Lithgowicon so it must have some Aussie marks SON ???? not weaking and branching out are we.!!!!!! Will need passport and papers to go on the GREEN TARP.

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    Advisory Panel Simon's Avatar
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    I've restored a couple of the longer SMLE mounted PP Co scopes in the past and have found you can get a really nice original looking finish by blasting the tube carefully with fine sand or very worn grit and then simply chemi blacking the tube.

    Cheers,

    Simon.

  11. #7
    Advisory Panel Son's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bindi2 View Post
    That is not a Lithgowicon so it must have some Aussie marks SON ???? not weaking and branching out are we.!!!!!! Will need passport and papers to go on the GREEN TARP.
    It has "Tarp worthy" markings

    Attachment 49337Attachment 49338

    Simon, are you still collecting details off these rifles? If so, what would you like from this one?
    Last edited by Son; 01-27-2014 at 02:31 PM.

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    Legacy Member Craig Eberhardt's Avatar
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    I came this close but I couldn't get a PTA from the war office so close to my last purchase!

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    Brad,

    Yes please, PM me the serial number of the Rifle and Scope and I'll add it to my list.

    Cheers,

    Simon.

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    Brad,

    If it was Mine, I,d go with Peters or Simons advice, but I,d rather use Aluminium oxide as its a bit more forgiving than sand, Two links below regarding a bayonet I did.

    The stuff for doing the whole process is available but it worked out an expensive option to me so experimented.

    There is a cold oxide kit you can get from Caswell, I,ve used this a few times and does produce various results it does a good job on 1907 bayonets, after experimenting you can achieve a finish that is a cross between bluing and phostphate, I,m sure this (the Caswell kit) has very similar ingredients to what DRP uses.

    Caswell do other kits for various metals.

    Black Oxide Kits - Metal Finishing Solutions - Caswell Inc


    Jungle Carbine Bayonet Repair

    Home DIY phosphate/ parkerizing process

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    Son

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