The base of the receiver and the top surface of the scope mount must be parallel for correct base installation. The gunsmith uses a known level surface to which he clamps the receiver, then uses a level and shims the base as required, if required, to ensure the top of the scope base is level with the base of the receiver. Clamping the receiver to the level surface typically requires a spacer (a machined block). Any good smith will do this when he mounts a scope.
I am not certain what you meant by "correct height".
I bought a specially machined block from Brownell's for the 1903 for this purpose. I tap the receivers, and/or barrel, using a Billy Best rig. I have D&T'ed numerous SHT receivers in this manner.
I have never had to spot temper the SHT receivers to drill them, but if required, I use an old soldering iron with a pointed tip, heated red-hot, and momentarily, maybe 3-4 seconds, touch it to the spot to be annealed. Never, and I mean never, use a torch to heat the spot to be annealed. You will ruin your receiver and make it very dangerous to shoot. An acetylene torch burns at about 4,400 to 6,000 degrees F, with a relatively broad flame, and such a flame will ruin your receiver in a matter of seconds, because the case-hardened surface of a SHT receiver is only a few thousandths of an inch thick.
I mention this because I saw where someone recommended the torch procedure on a forum, and he obviously has absolutely no knowledge of the subject. All information on the net is not correct, so beware and investigate what you read, including what I post.
I hope this helps.