enfield 303 ammo

[viking guy]

This is a little off topic but may be helpful. The greek milsurp 303 British if headstamped HXP usually early 70s. Clean(minimal fouling) and very accurate thru my Ts. Pretty pricey right now but if you run into some give it consideration. Non corrosive.

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[bighoss]

ok
about how muck is a pound of that powder and about how many rounds do u get out of a pound and what bullet weight do you use

---------- Post added at 05:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:21 PM ----------

ok
so about how much is a pound of that powder and about how many rounds do you get out of a pound and what is the bullet weight

[Nickjc]

Big hoss. Have u reloaded before? Not 303 mil but ANY round?

I have been reloading for a number of years and I get nervous when I see best this best that posts
sorry no offense implied but I suggest a good reloading manual to start....

What works well for John doe might not for you or your rifle

slug you rifle to see true diameters so you can pick the right bullet

research some loads with various powders and bullet weights FROM MANUALS

IM sorry but trusting reloading data from a web based experience is like playing Russian roulette

I am sure most folks are sincere but do YOU want to take that chance of errant info and blow u and your rifle up??

My .02

[bighoss]

yes i have reloaded before but not a 303 british round
i have not done a rifle yet i have done pistol

[Peter Laidler]

I'm not a reloader nor have I ever reloaded anything but SURELY, the BEST reload for a .303" rifle, regardless of the cost, is the reload that gives you a bullet that gives the trajectory that matches the original spec of the factory spec ammo.

Without this, your reload is pretty well rubbish. I say this, not as a reloader but as one who's seen many many times on this forum, the plight of those reloaders who simply can't zero their rifles with the foresights available or the trajectory of the reload doesn't even remotely match the graduated scale of the backsight. Or even worse those who have No4T's whose telescopic scale doesn't even remotely match the scale of the telescope.

Steel helmet on and awaiting incoming.........................

[OxfordAndy]

I'm not a reloader nor have I ever reloaded anything but SURELY, the BEST reload for a .303" rifle, regardless of the cost, is the reload that gives you a bullet that gives the trajectory that matches the original spec of the factory spec ammo.

Without this, your reload is pretty well rubbish. I say this, not as a reloader but as one who's seen many many times on this forum, the plight of those reloaders who simply can't zero their rifles with the foresights available or the trajectory of the reload doesn't even remotely match the graduated scale of the backsight. Or even worse those who have No4T's whose telescopic scale doesn't even remotely match the scale of the telescope.

Steel helmet on and awaiting incoming.........................

+1

I'm not a reloader either and freely admit that the thought of it fills me with dread!

I've also spent far too much time chasing ammo to match classic rifles front and rear sight sight size/calibration.

If you are in the UK, my recommendation is to go back to the original specs for the ammo, get the details on the "spec" MV, the weight of the bullet and the length of the barrel and call John Carmichael at HPS (or maybe even the guys at Kynamco, although I have little experience of them).

John will take care of all the calcs and and he will make you up as many batches as you like.

I did this with my Mauser and haven't had any problem finding ammo that worked since!

Simple, painless and a lot less time consuming than sitting in a shed practicing the black arts!

[Devils Own]

Reloader 15 pretty much matches the muzzle velocity of traditional propellants. There are plenty of 174g bullets about, unfortunately all of them seem to be boat-tail which don't grip the rifling on old barrels quite so well.

Steve

[GRF]

Best loads for milsurps are those that match origanal balistsic saves fiddling with the sights.

Each rifle is a unique device, there is not magic load. A load which is safe in one rifle may be dangerous in another. Simply changing primers or brass can have a significant effect upon pressures. Buy at least 2 manuals and read them thoroughly. Another good device to have is a chronograph, there some very good ones at a reasonable price.

Handloading can be /is a very rewarding hobby but must be done as methodically as possible. The internet, even top rate sites such as this are not a place to get reloading information.

I presently reload for 12 different calibres, the milsurps are; 6.5x55, .303, 7.62x54R, 8x57. In the .303 using different powders can cause a 3 inch lateral shift in point of impact. There is no easy anser. GRF

[bighoss]

ok
ya i was just wounder what is a good way to do it
so ere can i find those books and were can i find the origanal balistsic for that rifle at is wikiapida good

[RobD]

Bighoss, you want a 174 grain copper jacketed bullet, made for .303 (should measure at .311 or .312 diameter). Don't get .308 bullets, those 3 thou make a difference. For powder, I use 40 grains of Vihtavuori N140. This matches the original load, fairly well. There are many alternatives. But when you add together cost of jacketed bullet (15 c) primer (2c) powder (20c) and brass (?) you will find that it is roughly 50c a round (50p a round in the UK). If you can get surplus ammo, it should be considerably cheaper than reloading....