03A3 Stamped Trigger Guard Question

[Bobinmich]

John,
When did Remington and Smith-Corona add the pads in production?
Thanks!

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[daveboy]

This may be a dumb question and if so I am sure someone will inform me of such.
But, why couldn't you just find a washer that was just the right size and place it between the guard and stock with the screw running through it? If you are looking for "authentic" or are trying to keep your rifle legal for matches of course the washer idea is out. But, to simply tighten up the fit I fail to see why this would not work.

daveboy

[Kirk]

Daveboy makes a point although it may take several washers. An alternate would be to make a spacer and place it behind the guard screw hole. Make it think enough so the guard screw tightens up firmly.

Also check the wood under the tang. The 1903 stock was designed to give 4-8 lbs upward pressure on the fore end tip to promote accuracy. If the pressure is less than this, check the wood under the tang to see if it is compressed. (It compressed with use & time). You should be able to pull the wood away from the barrel with your fingers & see it snap back when released.

If there is no upward pressure by the stock to the barrel, add a metal shim, like a thin washer, under the tang and around the guard screw. This will have the effect of pushing the barrel into the forearm tip. Think of the front guard screw as the fulcrum or pivot. The shims under the tang allow the barreled receiver to pivot down, increasing forearm pressure. Remington made special shims just for this purpose. The were D shaped with a hole in the middle for the guard screw. The belly of the D fit under the tang. The shims were .030" thick. The shim had two points, like brads, one on each side, to bite into the wood to keep it in place. When stripping CMP 1903/A3 rifles, you'd occasionally find 1 and sometimes two of these shims (piggyback) under the tang.

Attachment 26941

Also, tighten the forward guard screw first; the rear one last & not as tight.

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I do not know how rare or expensive the "padded" trigger guards are but you could buy one to replace your original guard and remain legal for matches asnd in configurtion while correcting your problem. Just a thought.
Just a thought

Cosine26

I have commenced the search for a trigger guard asy with the pad. A few years ago the most gun shows had a table or two with piles of parts for US GI weapons. Been to two shows lately and no vendors with large quantities of GI parts.

I suppose the fuel expense has exceeded the profit margins for selling little bits and pieces.

Regards

Jim

[John Beard]

John,
When did Remington and Smith-Corona add the pads in production?
Thanks!

On 2 Sep 43, the Chief of Ordnance ordered Springfield Armory to prepare a revised trigger guard drawing showing the pad.

On 23 Sep 43, the Chief of Ordnance ordered Springfield Armory to distribute the revised trigger guard drawing.

On 29 Oct 43, the Chief of Ordnance ordered Springfield Armory to change the dimensions of the trigger guard pad as requested by Remington.

Does that answer your question?

J.B.

---------- Post added at 11:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:04 PM ----------

This may be a dumb question and if so I am sure someone will inform me of such.
But, why couldn't you just find a washer that was just the right size and place it between the guard and stock with the screw running through it? If you are looking for "authentic" or are trying to keep your rifle legal for matches of course the washer idea is out. But, to simply tighten up the fit I fail to see why this would not work.

daveboy

Do NOT place a washer over the front trigger guard bushing with the screw running through it. The washer will obstruct tightening the trigger guard and make the bedding problem much worse!!!!

A better solution is to place a small hardwood pad between the front bushing and magazine well which simulates the metal pad added in late '03-A3 production.

Hope this helps.

J.B.