No.4 trigger stoning..and other question

[Bruce_in_Oz]

For a long time, I have been using the Eze-Lap "sharpening sticks" for all manner of tasks, including trigger work.

For the general idea, see here: Diamond Hone Eze-Lap Diamond Products

The basic tool is a flat plastic stick with a metal plate bonded on one end. This plate is loaded with industrial diamonds. Several grades are available.

Unlike a carbide stone, the steel substrate doesn't develop dips and waves. This means that, used correctly, the surface being "stoned" should stay "flat". Also, being thin and having a handle, you can get them into all sorts of tight spots. Anyone doing pistol work will find them very handy; de-burring and polishing S&W rebound slides, triggers, hammers etc. and polishing/trueing M1911 firing mech parts are other uses.

They are also excellent for keeping good-quality kitchen and hunting blades in top cutting form.

And, no, I am NOT on a commission from Mr. Eze Lap!

[WarPig1976]

I'm with RobD,,, A Dremel with polishing wheel has lightened countless triggers,sears,feed ramps in my humble home workshop. I don't stone or file anything due to a lack of jigs.

[bow]

My trouble, using dremel, is that i can't polish materials and surfaces uniformly: it depends the angulation you maintain dremel on your hand. But..i'm a bit courious..

---------- Post added at 04:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:33 PM ----------

And Thank Bruve: i ordered diamond stones for my chisels..

[Bruce_in_Oz]

I posted the following a long time ago and then lost the disc on which the source document was stored. Now found!

!Specification No S.A./462 P, being for Rifle's No1 Mklll, with bantam long, normal and short butt (S.M.L.E., .303-in. With cut-off.)

Refers to 57/Spefns/3866 Approved 14. 12. 1938

Body -- Steel. B.S.S.5005/401 -- Partially oil hardened, tempered and browned.

Barrel -- Steel. D.D.8 -- (Heat treated)

Bolt, Breech -- Steel. D.D.8 -- Oil-hardened, tempered, polished and browned or oil-blacked.

Head, breech bolt -- Steel B.S.S.5005/103 -- Case hardened and polished. Further, on page 8 it states: "If the bolt-head be made of mild steel it is to be marked with the letter "M" on the top of the wing."NOTE: earlier specifications (S.A./242 for Rifle, Short, Magazine, Lee-Enfield (Mark 1). |C.|) 13th July 1903, called for the bolt-head to be made from malleable cast-iron, specifically 34F Special gun iron, case hardened.

Regarding barrel proof, refer to page 12g) Proof. - The barrel will be submitted with the action attached for proof. The distance from end of bolt to face of barrel will be tested with a cartridge head gauge .067-inch. The proof will then be carried out with a proof cartridge, the charge being about 33 grains of No.3 cordite, having a service bullet of 215 grains, giving a mean pressure not below 24 tons per square inch, after which the action will be examined; and the barrel, body, and bolt head will be marked with the proof mark."

Supplementary note:

Composition of the B.S.S.5005/401 steel used in the body (receiver):

Iron (unsurprisingly)
Nickel 2.75 to 3.50 %
Manganese 0.35 to 0.75%
Chrome 0.30%
Carbon 0.25 to 0.35%

So, the body used an “alloy” steel.

However, the cocking piece on a SMLE is made from “D.D.4. Temper No. 5, Grade “B””

I cannot find a reference for this one in my trust “Machinery’s Handbook, (27th Edition). Any clues out there?

The other interesting thing is that the barrel and bolt body are made from the same steel, D. D. 8, but given different heat treatment.

Does anyone out there have data sheets for “old” British iron and steel products? Almost everything I have is about American steels and I cannot find “equivalent” data.

[Bruce_in_Oz]

But WAIT!!! There's more!!

I finally found my copy of the 1903 specification for the Rifle, Short, Magazine, Lee-Enfield (Mark 1) dated 13th. July, 1903.

It lists:

Barrel:

[Bruce_in_Oz]

But WAIT!!! There's more!!

I finally found my copy of the 1903 specification for the Rifle, Short, Magazine, Lee-Enfield (Mark 1) dated 13th. July, 1903. This is what happens when you shuffle furniture around whilst renovating / painting your house!

Anyway, the 1903 Spec. lists:

Body: 56 A 71 - MILD STEEL (Partially oil hardened, tempered and browned (blued))

The "recipe" for this stuff is:

Carbon - 0.5% to 0.6%
Silicon - From 0.1% to 0.3%
Manganese - From 0.45% to 0.50%
Sulphur - NOT ABOVE 0.04% (NB Sulphur seriously degrades "barrel" steel. It is EXTREMELY deleterious in stainless steel barrels, as some individuals and makers have found to their cost and horror)
Phosphorus - NOT ABOVE 0.04%

Barrel: 110 A - Crucible or Siemens-Martin Steel (Browned) NB. This is a GERMAN special steel: I'll bet things got interesting come 1914!

Bolt: 56 A 42 - Crucible Cast Steel (Oil hardened, tempered and browned)

Bolt Head: 34F Special Gun Iron (Case Hardened) The notes only say:

"The iron must be clean and free from seams and small :greys", as the slightest imperfection shows itself when the material is polished and case-hardened. The ultimate tensile strength per square inch must not be less than 22 tons, with a minimum elongation of 15 percent and a minimum contraction of area at point of fracture of 45 per cent. In a further twist, this same material is used for the two Butt-plate screws.

Cocking Piece: 56 A 42 Cast steel (Hardened, tempered and oil blackened)

Sear: 56 A 43 BEST Cast Steel (Hardened and tempered))