1891 Argentine made in Germany won't fire

[AlaskanUser]

Assembled bolt as properly as possible. Firing pin protrusion within correct range, cocking piece flush with end of firing pin... I assume this meant firing pin end flush with the back part of the cocking piece hole furthest to the rear. Not even a dent in the primer.
I'll order the chamber casting stuff from Brownell's in an order I need to place.. I'll slug the barrel later and mic that.
Some of the literature I've read and videos I've watched suggest using a nickle or a quarter to keep some spacing so you can disassemble the bolt. I have to use the end of a 1/4" brass drift to get the spacing needed to rotate the bolt off. Does this mean anything to anyone?

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[vintage hunter]

Assembled bolt as properly as possible. Firing pin protrusion within correct range, cocking piece flush with end of firing pin... I assume this meant firing pin end flush with the back part of the cocking piece hole furthest to the rear. Not even a dent in the primer.
I'll order the chamber casting stuff from Brownell's in an order I need to place.. I'll slug the barrel later and mic that.
Some of the literature I've read and videos I've watched suggest using a nickle or a quarter to keep some spacing so you can disassemble the bolt. I have to use the end of a 1/4" brass drift to get the spacing needed to rotate the bolt off. Does this mean anything to anyone?

Not sure I'm following the whole use pocket change to keep some spacing to disassemble the bolt thing.
If you're referring to unscrewing the bolt shroud/fp assy. out of the bolt body just flip the safety tab to the center position(assuming it's a mil spec safety) before removing the bolt from the reciever. Doing this removes all the fp spring tension.
If it's an aftermarket low pro safety clamp the cocking piece protrusion in a vise and pull out on the bolt body while turning it in the appropriate direction.
Any way you can post pics of what you're working with? Namely the cartridge you're attempting to fire, especially there headstamp. Oh, what the hay, might as well post some of the whole rifle and the bolt assembled and disassembled while you at it.

[Low & Slow]

If this violates any copyrights or what ever, please delete it forthwith. Not for personal gain, just trying to help shed some light.

[vintage hunter]

If this violates any copyrights or what ever, please delete it forthwith. Not for personal gain, just trying to help shed some light.

Ah, right you are. It's been good many years since I last handled a '91 and I forgot they have 2 position safeties rather than the 3 position of the later models.

[AlaskanUser]

Every online and written PDF I have about this exact gun refers to the coin or spacer method, the bolt will not simply unscrew as it goes under the part that I unscrew it from. I've already written that I'm attempting to fire Model 1891 Argentine Mauser PPU 7.65 Argentinian Mauser ammo and no primer hit no matter how I set the bolt up. I've ordered some chamber casting stuff, haven't slugged the barrel yet but it inside mics to approx 7.6 something caliber.
I have the three position selector flipped properly according to multiple different sources. I've become pretty good at disassembly and reassembly of the bolt and last adjusted the cocking piece hole to be flush with the end of the firing pin. I dunno. Will eventually get my Brownell's order, they are running slow to Alaska.. probably the Christmas time rush, and will eventually slug the barrel. Did people ever rechamber these to .308 and get away with the slightly smaller 7.62 bullet going down a 7.65 barrel? I'll try to get some pics after I get home from work late tonight or more likely tomorrow as I usually have a date with a wild turkey when I get home.
George

Not sure I'm following the whole use pocket change to keep some spacing to disassemble the bolt thing.
If you're referring to unscrewing the bolt shroud/fp assy. out of the bolt body just flip the safety tab to the center position(assuming it's a mil spec safety) before removing the bolt from the reciever. Doing this removes all the fp spring tension.
If it's an aftermarket low pro safety clamp the cocking piece protrusion in a vise and pull out on the bolt body while turning it in the appropriate direction.
Any way you can post pics of what you're working with? Namely the cartridge you're attempting to fire, especially there headstamp. Oh, what the hay, might as well post some of the whole rifle and the bolt assembled and disassembled while you at it.

---------- Post added at 03:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:47 PM ----------

Mine has a three position safety, at least it clicks into three positions and one of them prevents the firing pin from releasing.

Ah, right you are. It's been good many years since I last handled a '91 and I forgot they have 2 position safeties rather than the 3 position of the later models.

[Low & Slow]

Sounds like there is something funny going on here. The 1891 Argentine Mauser has a two position safety, and shouldn't need a 1/4" spacer to unscrew. I've got about 6 3/16" firing pin length here, very slight protrusion at the rear. Nickel is inserted for disassembly. Does this look like yours?

[AlaskanUser]

I'll take it apart again and get pics and measurements when I get home tonight...

Sounds like there is something funny going on here. The 1891 Argentine Mauser has a two position safety, and shouldn't need a 1/4" spacer to unscrew. I've got about 6 3/16" firing pin length here, very slight protrusion at the rear. Nickel is inserted for disassembly. Does this look like yours?

---------- Post added at 10:36 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:34 AM ----------

Will post pics much later tonight or tomorrow. Thanks, guys. I'm pretty good with most guns but have zero experience with this one. Even if it's a bastardized assembly I really want to get it working for the memory of my Dad.

Hmm, wondering if the OP's bolt is made up of mixed parts? Maybe a M'93/95 bolt shroud/firing pin assy screwed into an M '91 bolt body? If that's even possible...
OP, does your bolt shroud have the Argentine "shaking hands" inspectors stamp on the left side like in the second pic above? It should be on the cocking piece and firing pin too, IIRC.