What to do about this crown?

[Claven2]

the pads are both soldered and screwed. Normally you would snug the screws, then heat the pad until the solder flows (it's just lead solder), and as you play the torch over the pad (a second set of hands helps), you tighten the screw to further bed the pad in the liquid solder. If the solder is a good joint, then the screws would never loosen - even if not freshly staked.

your rifle looks like the solder coverage is only maybe 60%. I would re-tin the receiver (and maybe the pad) before re-affixing it.

[CINDERS]

Are the screws for the front pad meant to have a small slot along the threads (Lengthwise) to allow the solder to flow into that as well, ensuring they won't move read or seen it somewhere here.

[Claven2]

I’m honestly not sure. I’ve be never done the job myself, just seen it done.

[Garandy]

I'm going to replace the screws as it appears that they are all slightly bent. Need to do some reading on front pad reattachment. I'm pretty sure Brian and/or Peter have posted about it several times, but I didn't pay enough attention as I didn't need the info at that exact moment.

[browningautorifle]

I'm pretty sure Brian and/or Peter have posted about it several times

They have and it's here.

[Claven2]

On the screws, if they tighten up ok, it will not matter if they are slightly bent. The solder job holds it laterally, the screws are just to apply pressure and hold the pad tight to the receiver.

[Surpmil]

So, more details and information.

Rifle in question is really a BSA No4, it just so happens to be a T. Rifle matches itself but the No32 Mk1 scope (serviced some years back by Peter) and bracket while real, are not originally from this rifle.

I might have another reason for lack of accuracy besides the crown. The at least twice staked in service front pad screws loosened up again and the front pad came loose from the receiver so I actually have two issues I need to fix.

The current sorry state of "gunsmithing" in my local area is pretty dire unless you need the sights changed on a Glock or an AR-15. I'm not sure the few I know of even own a lathe or have a backlog I'd grow old waiting for them to burn down to get to my small crown problem.

So with that in mind, I have not issues buying some tooling and getting after it myself IF I'm not wasting my time and money or creating new issues. They are out of stock at the moment, but I'd think something of this nature (but maybe not this specific item) would potentially address my crown issue: BROWNELLS 45\ Cutter Steel Pilot Fits .311 Muzzle SKU: 080587311

Or something along these lines: https://www.midwayusa.com/product/10...253&pid=334892

Thoughts?

Send it to Brian Dick at BDLtd. in NC if you want the pad put back properly and the muzzle restored.

I'd also suggest you post the numbers on your scope, bracket (mount), and the wrist of the rifle butt in case the matching scope (or rifle) is out there somewhere.

And yes, match-ups have occurred repeatedly.

[Roger Payne]

If you want some new replacement screws let me know as they are still available from model engineer suppliers over here. I have plenty.
I have re-fitted quite a lot of pads to 4T's over the years. I use fryolux solder paste. It's viscous like thick custard & contains the finely divided solder as well as the flux. I tin the milled out panel for the front pad, & the area over which the rear pad sits, carefully. I also tin the mating faces of the pads. It is quite easily done using the fryolux, heating until it melts & the solder/flux goes a brown/golden colour. Wipe off the 'gold bits' carefully using a cotton rag (no synthetic materials!), leaving the relevant areas tinned & a bright silver colour (they must be clean & grease free before you start). I tin the screws too, carefully wiping off all surplus solder & flux. You can then carefully place the pads in position (one at a time), locate the screws, & carefully warm everything up just enough for the solder to melt. At this point you can pinch up the screws. The solder will soon solidify & lock everything solid. I make several passes over each screw until it is quite tight - but remember to stop before you knacker the screw slot!
The front pad screws may well protrude through into the bolt guideway, but you can shorten them to approximately right length beforehand & then trim off any excess when you've finished the soldering. H&H passed a milling cutter along the guideway to trim off the screw ends, but if you are careful a file will work satisfactorily. You may need to retouch the finish a little afterwards. It is also important not to over do it with the heat in case you mess with the heat treatment.

Note I use the word 'carefully' a lot!

Peter may well be able to suggest better means of doing this, so if he chips in read his post not mine.

Or send the rifle to Brian.......!

[browningautorifle]

I have re-fitted quite a lot of pads to 4T's over the years.

Excellent information base...

[Garandy]

If I fail at fixing this myself, BDL is my plan B.

Roger, I'll gladly take you up on your offer. Would love to buy a few sets. Fryolux solder paste eh? I see several different flavors online. I'll have to see if something similar exists in the US.

And yes, I did take note of "careful" and that is the plan. Last thing I want to do is wreck stuff with too much heat.