, how long is your A4 bolt

[Chuckindenver]

even with the poorly done pictures, i can see your bolt is not a genuine A4 snipers bolt. why would you go through the trouble of destroying the barrel, when you can buy a replacement replica A4 bolt and have it sent to you? to add, the whole length of the bolt is not how the headspace is effected, its the face of the bolt and locking lugs, if your bolt closes on a NO GO gauge, likely this bolt has set back, damage from being opened and slammed into the ejector hard many times. if you look at the left side locking lug, the one with a notch for the ejector, it may have damage at the rear. shaped like a crescent moon.

[ssgross]

even with the poorly done pictures, i can see your bolt is not a genuine A4 snipers bolt.

That handle looks to me like the cheap CC replacement bolts with poorly done bent handle jobs that Numrich has been selling for a while.
https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/525470b
Chuck has done 2 A4 bolts for me - shame for the rest of you he is retired now . It's good to hear from you, Chuck! I hope you are doing well.

[1903Collector]

Well stated, but I think the guy lives in France and may not be able to acquire/import a correct A4 bolt.

If those who use HS gages read the instructions they will learn that the bolt has to close freely with no load applied. Receivers and Bolts are hardened, but the gages are hardened to a higher level, and as you say slamming the bolt on a gage when the bolt does not close freely has a chance to damage the receiver or bolt. If the bolt isnt stripped as it should be it is even more prone to damage. The ejector heat treated to an even lower hardness grade, if hardened at all (Ive not seen the an Ejector Drawing) as it needs to be more ductile by design.

For the record, slamming the bolt on a gage when the bolt does not close freely will not damage or alter the gage. It is not likely to cause the gage to be out of spec. I believe they are hardened to a high level and have to be so in order to function as a gage.

[gigi79]

Thank you for the offer of help that you could give me at the time when you were traveling in the EU. And thank you all for your comments.

I am not looking for an A3 bolt body but an A4. The cocking lever is positioned well like the rear lock. This can only come from the front face of the bolt body. If I put an A3 bolt body, the headspace is OK: the GO gauge closes and the NO GO gauge does not close; for the A4, GO and NO GO close.

The photo is indeed a cheap body bolt but I have the A4 bolt body which is authentic. My A4 comes from WW2, left in a family barn in front of the Vosges front (by the 79th DIUS or the 501st RCC (2nd DB)).

I respect my armament and I do not slam a gauge when closing the bolt. I know how to use this equipment having been a specialist non-commissioned officer in armament for my unit.

I found a French importer and now I need to find a body bolt A4.

Thanks for your interest

[Chuckindenver]

bolt in your hand is not a genuine A4 bolt..

[gigi79]

Whatever you say, it's a bolt A4. This A4 has been in the family since 1944.