SMLE Bolt Head Underturn

[gc1054]

All,
Fitting out a new bolt assembly for my SMLE (1918 Enfield MkIII*) due to excessive wear on the current bolt body and in the rear striker hole (loose striker in bolt body even with a "new" striker installed). I am carefully following Peter Laidler's bolt fitting instructions and have only done dry-fiitting of parts, recoil lug bearing surface checks, etc) to date. However, I've run into an issue with all my available bolt heads (5) underturning such that I cannot align the bolt head with the recoil rib. The new bolt body has (in theory) never been installed in a rifle (NOS bought from APEX....no SN stamped...no evidence of filing or grinding on bolt handle, etc.) and is a very nice fit in rifle body channel. Since I do not have a unlimited supply of boltheads (two more coming for a total of 7....fingers crossed) is the only solution to the underturn problem to skim cut the rear face of the bolt head? Or am I missing something wrt the new bolt body and fitting the bolt head?
Thanks!
GC

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[jessebogan]

I was able to put a bolt head in a jewlers lathe and skim a tiny amount from the edge of the bolthead. I was advised on this forum to not cut the bolt body as it is a much harder part to find. I did a little tiny cut at a time and checked fit after every cut. It worked out great. I did find that lubing the threads a wee bit helped the bolt head movement in the body. I also found that it took far longer to set up the head in the lathe than it did to cut it.

Hope this helps
Jesse in DC

[gc1054]

I was able to put a bolt head in a jewlers lathe and skim a tiny amount from the edge of the bolthead. I was advised on this forum to not cut the bolt body as it is a much harder part to find. I did a little tiny cut at a time and checked fit after every cut. It worked out great. I did find that lubing the threads a wee bit helped the bolt head movement in the body. I also found that it took far longer to set up the head in the lathe than it did to cut it.

Hope this helps
Jesse in DC

Jesse,
Thanks. I've got a couple of good machine shops nearby and will check with them about skimming the rear face of one of the best fitting bolt heads. Of course there's always the chance that one of the two additional bolt heads I've ordered will just line up but since I'm 0-5 at this point in time I won't bet on it:}
GC

[gc1054]

I was able to put a bolt head in a jewlers lathe and skim a tiny amount from the edge of the bolthead. I was advised on this forum to not cut the bolt body as it is a much harder part to find. I did a little tiny cut at a time and checked fit after every cut. It worked out great. I did find that lubing the threads a wee bit helped the bolt head movement in the body. I also found that it took far longer to set up the head in the lathe than it did to cut it.

Hope this helps
Jesse in DC

Jesse,
Another quick question on the bolt head under turn issue: Was it recommended that the bolt body face (where the bolt head rear surface contacts the bolt body) not be adjusted because of surface hardening (or some other metal or load bearing property required for the bolt body) or was it just due to the availability of a good bolt body?
Thanks!
GC

[jmoore]

SMLE bolt heads were also fit at the bolt face, so pick one that is longish and plan on an additional skim cut on the other end. As far as skimming the rear face of the bolt head or the front of the body, I'd go with the head. Cheaper to replace if things go wrong, fit later then the body (so less work lost if you have to start over) and easier to set up in the lathe.

[Son]

Don't go skimming anything. There was a tool designed to fit the bolt head so it could be worked back and forth tightening it against the bolt body until you achieve the right position.

Can't remember where this page came from, wait for some more input before you do anything.... open for comment?

Attachment 49943

[Alan de Enfield]

Can't remember where this page came from, wait for some more input before you do anything.... open for comment?

Attachment 49943

That was one of Big Ed Hortons pics
(He will now be trying to sue you for copyright - as he threatened to do to me)

[Peter Laidler]

The TOOL, bolt head, rifle as shown by Son will work where it's a very small amount of underturn but not if it's a lot (all apprentices of the era made them.....). We never had a problem because we always had a tray full of bolts/bolt heads to fit/try before finally adjusting up and numbering. But I would turn a gnats knacker off the bolt head shoulder in this case so that you get the MINIMUM of overturn. Bolt head is really tough material and can take it

[Brit plumber]

When I fitted a new bolt to my MkIV, I used a similar tool to the bolt head tool above except my tool was a vice with fibre pads. With the help of a little oil it loosened off after a while but as Peter said, mine was only a few degrees off so was possible. M new bolt had some inspection marks where the serial number would be so I was happy that had it been 'Used and scrubbed' those inspection marks would have been removed too.

[gc1054]

SMLE bolt heads were also fit at the bolt face, so pick one that is longish and plan on an additional skim cut on the other end. As far as skimming the rear face of the bolt head or the front of the body, I'd go with the head. Cheaper to replace if things go wrong, fit later then the body (so less work lost if you have to start over) and easier to set up in the lathe.

Moore,
Thanks. I've measured all the bolt head and tenon lengths as part of this process and selected the "best" two wrt minimum under turn and longest bolt head length. I'm prepped to skim the bolt head face if I can get to the point where I can fit the bolt assembly & check CHS, etc.
Thanks again
GC