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Thread: Convert a rebuild carbine to pre-rebuild configuration?

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  1. #1
    Legacy Member ammodave's Avatar
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    Convert a rebuild carbine to pre-rebuild configuration?

    Not a collector just a shooter. I have a really nice Inland (ser no. 700498) that I picked up about 10 yrs ago. It's an obvious rebuild with a bayonet lug, adj sights and a Buffalo Arms barrel dtd 43. I think I'd love it more if it was in the pre-rebuild configuration i.e. flip sight and no bayonet lug. I guess all I need is another barrel band and a flip sight. Has anybody else done this conversion? Bad idea? What sight and barrel band should I look for? Be gentle; I don't think this rifle has any collector status but I don't want to offend the purists.
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    It might not shoot as well when you're finished, but you can pick up reproduction front bands and flip sights pretty cheap. "REAL" parts could set you back $250 or more and still not be authentic. - Bob

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    I'd Double USGI's price quote for Real Parts.
    My last Flip Sight purchase for a S'G' ran $435+ Shipping.
    And often if you can find a Real early barrel band it's missing the Swivel and screw.

    I don't know if your after 'Issued Condition', if so you'd need a barrel swap also.
    Trigger group, internal parts and proper stock all add up quickly.
    To add to USGI's point about Fakes, There are many Fake parts, Flip sights, Barrel bands, Swivels, Butt plates, Hammers, Safeties, Mag Catches, many of these aren't made to GI spec.

    As for shooting, I hate the Flip Sights and prefer the left-right adjustments on the later rear sights. Along with the multiple elevation settings.
    The Bayo Band is giving you better accuracy, whether you notice it or not. If it is still in good shape it will secure the barreled action, stock and hand guard with more consistency.
    Recoil plate to Receiver rear tang lock up with slight barrel hang up front will also help your shooting.
    Many use SA stocks to build their shooters on.

    This link from our good friend Jim Mock (The Sleepless One) would be helpful when considering the Bayo Band.
    Down about 3/4's of the page see: The Third and Final Barrel Band Style.
    Also just below this read: A Note Regarding Accuracy.

    Link: The U.S. Caliber .30 Carbines - Barrel Manufacturers

    Keep in mind the later parts were improvements over the early ones. Hammers and Springs for less trigger pull tension. Late Op Slides for better ejection and timing. Round Bolts with updated Extractors, Ejectors, and ramped front bottoms to improve chambering.. etc. To name a few.

    If it were mine I'd save the $$ and buy quality ammo.

    Good Luck on your decision and Safe Weekend,
    Charlie-Painter777

    A Country Has No Greater Responsibility Than To Care For Those Who Served...

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    Legacy Member DaveHH's Avatar
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    What you are thinking of doing is now called "Correcting". If you are a shooter as Bob pointed out, you are probably looking at working against yourself. All of the late parts were improvements to make the rifle more reliable and accurate. Removing good proven adjustable sights and replacing them with BB gun sights and putting a type one band will absolutely make the gun less accurate. Worse yet, taking off good US made parts and replacing them with Chinese junk just doesn't seem like something you should do to a 75 year old gun. My NPM has a beat up Inland I cut stock a bayonet lug band and type 2 rear sight. It is easily more accurate than my two originals which are worth a lot more and in theory should shoot as good or better. The NPM is the last one I'd get rid of.

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    I'd take it out for a spin and see. If it shoots and functions well, I'd leave it. It IS in correct config right now. It's as it finished it's tour of duty.
    Regards, Jim

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    Legacy Member ammodave's Avatar
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    OK, I'll leave it alone. It's not a collector but the installed parts are probably real USGI. No reason to intentionally diminish the value.

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